Day 23 | our luck runs out

Carmel by the Sea, California

Distance

60.4 miles

Elevation Climbed

4,729 ft

Landscape

Coastline cliffs, arid hills, some redwood groves

Weather

Majority sunny with some thick cloud cover, 60-70 F

Kirsten’s Notes: 

I was very much looking forward to today’s ride through what I had remembered to be some of the most beautiful coastline in California when I had driven through years ago. We started the day with baked goods from a very popular local spot that has a line forming more than 30 minutes before they open – yum. Our scenic ride through pebble beach wasn’t super scenic because of the morning fog we are all too familiar with but we were able to see the rocky perimeter of the peninsula which is covered in golf courses and imagine how much more beautiful it would be unobstructed. It appeared that the fog was only visiting Pebble Beach because the moment we crossed city lines into Carmel by the Sea we had blue skies and sunshine. 

We went in and out of dense clouds many times today and it made the mountain-side feel alive in a way. It would be a warm, calm breeze one minute and then misting, low visibility fog would take over with clouds visibly whipping up the cliffside the next. We enjoyed endless curvy-q and hairpin turns that follow the topography of the cliffs throughout the day with striking views around every corner and down every cliff. We had a nice cadence going for us until Dad’s gear cable snapped off and he had to endure lengthy hills with 2 high gears. That was also working alright for a while but I gradually felt more fatigued with each pedal stroke and then my knees started to feel off. I looked down at my front tire and notice a lip where the tire makes contact with the ground (“not again…”) and look up and don’t see my dad anywhere. Luckily I wasn’t yet riding on my rims so I kept going for a few more miles until I find him waiting for me. Mom was likely going to pass by us in the next 20 minutes considering her ETA to our target destination and we have wiggle room in our route mileage so I didn’t hesitate to say “let’s call it” when Dad asks if we should change my tire and keep going. I didn’t have to say that twice to convince him out of more 2-gear climbs!

Big Sur looking south
Big Sur looking north
Big Sur looking down
Bridge in Carmel by the Sea, California
Bridge in Big Sur, California

Lars’ Notes: 

After a nice dinner and overnight stay in Pacific Grove, on Monterey Bay, we woke up early to get in line for an amazing bakery down the street. Kirsten got up and got in line at 6:30 and was seventh in line. They opened at 7:00. I joined her at about 6:50  and we were in pretty quickly. The products all looked amazing! They had a glazed donut about 8 inches in diameter, no calories there. Throwing the caloric cares away, we opted for an almond bear claw, a fruit and cheese danish and a couple of bagels. It was worth the wait. Lise, Kirsten and I shared the danish, the bear claw and one of the bagels, the other became our lunch/snack on the road. 

 

We started with cloudy skies and cool temps, like everyday! The ride started heading west along Monterey Bay and quickly arrived at the 17 mile drive, a well known route around Monterey Peninsula and meanders through coastline and some well known golf courses, the most famous being Pebble Beach. As we rode along this stunning coast and winding through these world renown courses, I was glad I was riding, not golfing. To play Pebble Beach Golf course is close to $1000.00 for a round ($600+ for greens fees, $200 for a cart and another few hundred for a caddie and tips); our ride was free. I loved this route just the way we did it! When we arrived at Pebble Beach, the beach, the skies were sunny and the temperatures were warming. 

 

About ten miles into the ride, we jumped on the Cabrilla Highway, Rt.1. After a few climbs and some inland miles, we eventually reached Big Sur and the magnificent rugged coasts. The wind was quite strong at points and happily mostly at our backs. In a few spots, however, the crosswinds were so strong it was tough to stay in a straight line along the shoulder. Clouds and fog added to the excitement. We stopped many times along the route for photo opportunities and lunch. We were in awe with every corner as the vistas opened up and we were blessed with the beauty of the rugged coastline, the high bluffs and the crystal clear blue/green Pacific Ocean. We could hear the barking of the seals (or sea lions) in many spots. We also had condors soaring overhead. 

 

As we continued south along the coast, we tolerated the many climbs and were exhilarated by the descents, hitting the hairpin turns at the same speed as the cars were driving. At about mile 45, we began a climb, and, as I shifted my rear derailleur to a higher gear, I got nothing. Upshift…nothing, downshift…nothing. As I coasted to a pullout in the road, it became obvious that my shifting cable broke. I had a spare cable, but have never changed one of these before. Note to self, research these things beforehand. In all reality, I never expected the cable to break. Anyway, I had the cable, but not the proper tools (at least that’s what I thought). With the cable broken for the rear derailleur, the chain was stuck on the smallest gear (the hardest). With the front derailleur still functional, my 20 speed bike was reduced to just two speeds; the hardest gear and the middle gear. I opted for securing the cable out of the way and just try to grind it out. I was able to continue with the ride, hoping to have the strength to make it up the remaining 7 out of 13 climbs. What I needed to do was try to keep up a good cadence and maintain speed in the lowest gear for as long as I could up the inclines and then shift down as the grade got steeper. It was difficult but I was able to keep it up. The result, however, was that I was moving much faster than Kirsten. I waited at the top of each incline for her to catch up and for me to catch my breath. At mile 60 or so, we were within striking distance of the 72 miles planned, I pulled over for Kirsten to catch up and, as she approached, announced that her front tire had gone flat again.

 

We knew that Lise was within a few miles of us so, instead of changing her tube on the road and me burning my thighs through the last 12 miles, we decided that we were being sent a signal. We decided to call it a day and wait for Lise to pass us along Rt. 1. She was there within a minute of our decision, final confirmation that it was the correct decision. We may also switch our day off from Monday to tomorrow and take the time to get both bikes back in top shape. Despite all the obstacles and challenges, I loved being on the road. The scenery, the fresh air, the sunshine and the company were exactly as I had dreamed!

Treats to start the morning right
Day 23 Complete but ended early